DBW pedal/TB question. - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
Engine Swaps - G35 / Z LS3 Swap, Best DBW Accelerator Pedal - What would be the best Drive,By Wire Accelerator Pedal to use on a G Looking for anyone whose got c10 with DBW pedals. LS2 Swap Thread caztuning.info caztuning.info?t= . The first pic looks like the bended area right before the arms meet could be gusseted. I can probably resell it at the swap meet and maybe recoup some of the cost. the original gas pedal (left) and the new DBW gas pedal (right) side by side.
At first, i thought the stock 79 pressure hose was a perfect fit, and it was… Until i started it up and realized the flare on the reservoir is an oring flare. Had to have a custom one made. No big deal, but be sure to check yours for the correct flare!
Dad and Brad’s ’95 Chevy LS Swap – RacingJunk News
My pump was a hydroboost pump, so i simply blocked off the top return line and ran a hose to the steering box. I wish i had taken some pictures of the exhaust,but i completely forgot.
The passenger mani doesn't have a bung for the 02 sensor, so i had to weld one in. I also had to get rid of my x pipe, it would not fit because of the trans x member. I recommend either buying Hookers exhaust kit i will at some pointor having an exhaust shop do the work. My handiwork with exhaust leaves something to be desired, and now my exhaust hangs way too low.
Also, i forgot to mention, soak your injectors the night before start up, the engine wouldn't start, and then we realized they were gummed up, soaked them in B12 overnight and it busted right off!
My final thoughts and tips for the swap- 1. Not only will this provide some otherwise hard to find and costly parts you wouldn't normally get, but it will also shed some light on how GM does things ex- i couldn't figure out out GM ran the battery cable from the batter to the starter and beyond.
They use a junction box on the side of the alternator mount in factory form. This swap can be done in these cars for less than 2k, if you hunt around for deals, and can do most of the work yourself. If my welding skills had been better, i could have made my own mounts, and that would have knocked off almost dollars.
I also bought a T56, one of the more expensive trans choices, a 4l60e can be had for in my parts. I regularly see complete 5.
Your area may differ. Whatever you think your entire project will cost, double it, and save triple that. I guarantee you will watch your expenses climb and wallet shrink faster that you though possible.
If you rush, you will buy things you don't need or won't work. I'm sure i've left stuff out, but feel free to ask questions and ill be sure to help as best as i can.
I will post a screen shot of my expense report when i get a sec. Mind you, its not the most accurate, but it will give you a good idea of what to expect. Of particular interest to those doing a harness swap for a 4WD rig is dealing with the vehicle speed sensor VSS.
DBW pedal mounting - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
The PCM reads the speed of the vehicle to determine transmission shifting points. When using a computer-controlled transmission, such as a 4L60E or 4L80E automatic, you will need the VSS to properly shift the transmission. Another option is to use an aftermarket kit to place the VSS between the transmission and transfer case. You can find more specific information about VSS function for other drivetrain configurations on lt1swap. There are a few basic tools you will probably want to have: Zip-ties and tape are handy for organizing your wiring branches as you work.
Here is the PCM and its harness connectors. You will want to disconnect the harness from the PCM before performing any work on the harness. You will find helpful tutorials and wiring diagrams on lt1swap.
To begin the harness rework, the main fuse block connector and several other harness connectors are cut free, leaving the engine harness wires to work with.
Unneeded wires are simply followed back through the harness and deleted. Pink power supply wires cut from this fuse block will be routed to the new standalone fuse block. Protective plastic covers are removed from the two large PCM connectors to allow access to the connector pins.
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Some pins will be removed and a few may be added, depending on your application. Some wires to be deleted are unpinned from the PCM connector, then the pin and wiring removed. The connectors on this PCM have small numbers to label each of the 80 pins in four banks of 20 pins. Various power wires for injectors, O2 sensors, PCM, and others are combined into three voltage wires to be run to the fuse block.
Mid-harness splices should be made by mechanically overlapping and twisting wires together followed by soldering the connection. Adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing can be used to cover the spliced sections. A lot of harness builders use a simple, open four-fuse block for the harness, and that works fine to provide a fuse for constant 12V and three for switched 12V sources to the various components.
We wanted something that was waterproof for underhood use and provided extra room for additional fuses and relays. We used a Littelfuse HWB60 power distribution module.
Wires plug into the back of the module using industry-standard Delphi Metri-Pack Series tanged terminals. Here is our fuse box setup with the fuses and relays.
It gets capped with a gasketed cover. You will also end up with a handful of wires to be integrated into your gauges or other vehicle wiring.
These include tach output and speed output, among others. You can pull the one from the interior harness of your donor vehicle or purchase one individually from an electronics supply house. In either case, you will need to wire it into the harness with 12V power, data, and ground connections. You can preserve the layout of all the harness branches as they were in the donor vehicle or make some routing and length changes as needed for your application.
G35 / 350Z LS3 Swap, Best DBW Accelerator Pedal
We laid our harness back on our donor engine and transmission to finalize the routing before we finished taping the branches in place. Once we were satisfied with the final layout and a possible engine test startthe harness was repackaged in split-loom tubing. We purchased high-temp loom rated to degrees F to withstand the underhood heat. We wrapped the harness branch junctions with nonadhesive, high-temp vinyl tape to completely cover all the individual wires.